The Carnevale, Venice

The Sunday Age

Sunday February 5, 2006

Alistair Smith

As the revival of historic events as present-day tourist marketing exercises goes, the Carnival of Venice, the Carnevale, must rate as one of greatest comebacks ever, given that conquering Napoleon put an end to whatever was left of the glorious Republic of Venice and its extravagant festivities in 1797.

Those who have participated in what has become the highlight of the city's year - some would say a highlight of the European calendar - might be amazed to learn that the Carnival wasn't even mentioned in the leading guidebooks of the late 1970s.

Yet today, we have a two-week orgy reminiscent of early 18th-century glory in the canals, squares and palaces of a city in which large sections are, frankly, battling to come to grips with the ravages of time, subsidence, decay and flooding.

Somehow, this still doesn't detract from its grandeur, so Venice can quite easily get away with reviving the tradition of masked balls and elaborate costumes in their original settings. It's party time in a big way, with revellers able to hide behind the masks that originally meant it was hard to tell between commoners and noble folk. Accommodation books out early and the causeway leading to the city from the surrounding region is frequently blocked to prevent overcrowding.

It's a time for street theatre, acrobats, performing troupes, circus, gala dinners, balls, classical theatrical and musical performances, story-telling for children, fancy dress parties, DJs and discos, parades and processions.

People get into the spirit early, but February sees activities at their peak, since the carnival - which in the distant past may have begun as a pagan festival marking the arrival of spring - is, like the Mardi Gras, a chance for a blow-out before the restrictions of Lent.

There's a saying "Semel in anno licet insanire" which means that it is acceptable to go mad once a year. Venetians and visitors take it to heart.

For today's merchants of Venice, a real boom time. They certainly get their pound of flesh.

-- Alistair Smith

© 2006 The Sunday Age

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